Pizza is now endemic in China. In decades past, cheese was rare and pizza was more so. China’s rapid economic development grew out of the opening up and reform movement of the late 70’s. There were a lot of changes in the 80’s but it wasn’t until the early 90’s that the world famous boom with global impact began in earnest.
Opening of 100th location of South Korean chain Mr. Pizza in China
Along with discos and democracy came food and beverage brands from abroad. No one escapes cola, so it seems, but pizza took a while to take root. KFC succeeded in China before other foreign restaurants even set up shop. KFC franchises were packed from the start in 1987 while the first McDonalds in China opened in 1992 in Beijing.
Pizza stayed niche for the 90’s, appearing in residential enclaves of international businesspeople, students, and tourists. Places like Yangshuo in Guangxi province and Dali in Yunnan province had pizza on the menu earlier than big cities like Qingdao or Chengdu. That’s because Yangshuo and Dali were on the backpacker trail promoted by guides like Lonely Planet.
Cafes along West Street in Yangshuo, Guangxi, China
Sooner or later pizza was bound to spread to urban areas and it might have helped that KFC was grouped with Pizza Hut under the corporate umbrella of first Pepsico and then the spinoff Yum Foods. Pizza Hut wasn’t the immediate hit that KFC was but eventually the brand gained traction, in part by following the KFC playbook of catering to local demand and offering dishes unique to China, inspired by Chinese culinary tastes.
Pizza Hut menu with durian fruit and other local preferences in China
Other pizza chains have succeeded in markets like Shanghai and Beijing without changing their menus too much. UK brand Pizza Express grew a significant business in China before being bought out by Chinese business interests, who rebranded Pizza Express as Pizza Marzano in China.
Pizza Marzano in Shanghai
American chains Domino’s and Papa John’s have not localised their menus or restaurants to the extent that Pizza Hut has. Domino’s continues to focus on delivery and carry-out.
Domino’s Pizza in Shanghai, China with delivery bikes
International hotel brands commonly offer pizza at their western style restaurants as do casual dining chains. Independent brands with fewer locations, often single store businesses, appear throughout China, often started by resident expats from western countries. Another source of pizza restaurant popularisation has come from South Korean chains, where pizza became popular much earlier along with widespread western influence.
Papa John’s Pizza in China with localised signage